Banderas Bay

From San Jose del Cabo we were surprised to have some light but sailable wind, we crossed the Sea of Cortez, arriving in La Cruz (part of Banderas Bay) two days later. We dropped anchor and headed to shore immediately to visit our friends on SV Mambo, who happened to be having a party that very evening. We socialized with other cruisers and expats living in the area who were happy to share their local knowledge on what to do, and where to go. The following day we ventured into town for the Sunday markets, located right on the waterfront.

It happened to be Easter around this time- Semana Santa (Saints week), and so the beaches were packed daily with Mexican families who come out in full force with 'everything but the kitchen sink', bringing chairs, tents, shade, crockpots, alcohol and music. There is always a mariachi band playing somewhere, even on the beach!

La Cruz is a very charming small town, lined with cobblestone streets and colorful flowers. Children run around everywhere, Grandmas sell their food directly from their kitchen. There is also a vibrant sailing community here, and lots of activities going on, from yoga to workshops to craft groups and swap meets. Plenty of people sail the Pacific Puddle jump from here, while others continue North or South (as we were).

This boat was anchored at La Cruz when heavy swell came in and broke their rope to chain splice and washed it up on the rocks!

We stayed in Banderas Bay for 2 weeks, and dropped anchor a few different places. We spent a while in Punta de Mita which was closer to the surf breaks, and structured our days around going surfing and napping through the hottest part of the day. We bought a hammock and strung it up on the bow- a perfect place to read and nap, as the wind and motion of the boat do all the hard work.

Surf breaks- La Lancha, Playa Anclote and El Faro- all accessible by dhingy!

 

Ceviche just never gets old..

We made a day trip (hitch-hiking) to the nearby town of Sayulita, a place known for its 'hippy' vibe. We didn't bother bringing the boat, as there is no safe anchorage there and it was slightly North to where we were. The hills there boast of brightly colored mansions that seem to have been imagined first in a drug induced bout of inspiration. In town, locals (of the foreign kind) get around in golf buggies.

We also made a day trip to the Marietas Islands, a few miles off the coast, known for their caves and unique wildlife. We were told that we needed a permit to anchor there as it is a government protected area and tourist hotspot, but upon finding that this permit was only obtainable at Puerto Vallarta (a two hour bus ride) we decided to plan on a very early arrival. We set our anchor at 7.15 and headed straight for the famous 'hidden beach' which we had seen many times on posters and hoped we would get there before the crowd. We found a tiny opening (was this is???), tied off the dhingy, and proceeded to swim through the opening. There was a strong surge and it was dark halfway through. Yes, it was scary! It looked nothing like the photoshopped pictures, but it was still really cool to swim through a cave and come out the other side to a secret beach. As we swam back out, the boats and tour groups started arriving.

This great picture I took from the internet, maybe if we had an underwater camera or a drone we could have got this shot?

This picture was taken from inside the 'bowl' after swimming through the cave

After, we explored the second island, managing to almost capsize our dinghy on the way in (talk about an adrenaline fuelled morning), we walked along the beach, through caves and up onto the large grassy knoll, where I almost stepped on a brown snake, which ended our trip walking through the long grasses on a bird infested island. Bird eggs + Tall grass = SNAKES right?! Back on the beach, we met another group of people, their guide politely informed us that it was a $1500 fine if caught going onto the island. Woops. We made it back to the boat and were greeted by a government patrol boat who also politely informed us that it is forbidden to anchor there without a permit. We couldn't have gotten out of there faster! It was lucky we didn't get fined, and also lucky that we got to see everything before being kicked out. I guess the proverb rings true- It's easier to ask forgiveness than to ask for permission! But really, we are terribly sorry for being such bad tourists..

Don't those caves look evil to you?

The protected blue-footed booby

Maybe taken a minute before the snake encounter?

Hauling Out and Hauling Ass to Banderas Bay

From San Diego we sailed overnight to Ensenada, with an appointment to haul out for a bottom paint at 8am. Naturally we expected a delay and let out a chuckle when we saw that the malecon (boardwalk) between the dock and the boatyard was being reconstructed and repainted. Once tied to the dock, we were instructed to wait. This was my chance to get some more blessed sleep! Mark jumped off and without a moments delay I crawled into bed. Some time later the quiet must have woken me, there were no more trucks, the lack of creaking lines, water sounds, no footsteps on deck. I peeped out and saw that we were in the AIR! The boat had been hauled out with me in it.

We didn't expect to stay in the yard more than a few days (a bottom paint is a quick in and out job after all), but ended up staying a total of two weeks waiting for a new cutlass bearing and transmission shaft coupler which needed replacing. Time in the yard was certainly different to being on the water. Baja Naval is situated right behind the 3 Presidential Heads and next to the giant flag, which means it is very central and with all the local festivities, there was music every afternoon and every night, right next door. Being back in Ensenada was a great opportunity for us to visit our friends and re-visit our favourite places to eat. We also tried to do jobs that we hadn't quite got done in San Diego, but alas- it seems there is never a point when you can say 'Yes, we are absolutely, truly READY'. With the delay on our boat parts, we ordered spare parts and last minute things online and made a trip to San Diego by car to pick them up, as the Mexican postal service is slow. Mark installed the HF radio which provides long range radio communication and an AIS receiver which allows us to see other AIS vessel information, like speed, course, and closest point of approach. Without AIS we'd be squinting through binoculars and making guesses. These are completely optional but we both feel that they are indispensable and provide peace of mind and safer sailing. I decided to tackle one of two decorative teak pieces at the bow. I can't seem to nail the google search on it, so I can't tell you what it's called! But we bought a heat gun for the job. And I speak from experience when I say that stripping varnish with a heat gun (instead of sanding) feels like cutting through warm butter.

As the time for us to be put back in the water approached so did a nasty weather system of strong wind and 5m swell. Our neighbor in the yard told us he was hauling out for it...ugh maybe not the best day to be put back in the water then. We opted to stay on the hard one more day and then ride the end of that system right down the coast of Baja. We topped up the fuel tank and had a farewell beer at the marina bar before leaving Ensenada. We had sailed up Baja last June and thought we would skip the usual stops and head straight for Puerto Vallarta.

Just a couple Bonita, no keepers

    

Every morning we found squid on deck?!

   

 We sailed mostly (using the jib and mizzen) but the wind was inconsistent and we clocked about a day and a half on the engine. After 6 nights and 5 days of variable wind conditions we needed fuel and a more recent weather forecast before heading across to the mainland (just in case). We pulled into Cabo San Lucas at the tip of Baja, dropping anchor and hurrying our way to shore only to discover that Spring Break was happening in full force. What a way to be brought back into the 'real' world. We walked down the beach, through masses of inebriated young adults, and veered into town for some groceries, and a quiet beer. We had heard the fuel docking fees in Cabo were outrageous, but thought it might just be another cruiser rumor. Sure enough, we found out they were charging $150 just to tie up at the fuel dock, not including the price of fuel. We scoffed and decided it was worth going out of our way to fuel up at San Jose del Cabo on the way out. The following day we motored down to a more secluded beach and paddled ashore with the SUP. We brought a picnic lunch, our little portable music speaker, and a big beach carpet to lay on. Within the hour we were swamped with tour boats.

Freestyle cruising was their slogan

When Jet skis rule the anchorage (no one is safe!)

Spring  Break at Mango Deck

Our "secluded" beach

It took another two days to get to La Cruz from Cabo. Total passage time of 9 days. We are now anchored just outside of La Cruz Marina, just north of Puerto Vallarta. It is a quiet little cobblestone town, lined with colorful flowers, and frequented by expats and cruisers. Big community here and lots of things going on. Tomorrow we will anchor at Playa Anclote (on Punta Mita) again, where we can dinghy out to the surf breaks morning and afternoon, and enjoy the in between time napping and reading in our newly acquired hammock strung up on the bow. What a life! Thanks for reading!

Three months in San Diego

At dawn, we pulled into San Diego Bay and were greeted by a rain shower and the bobbing lights of the waterway. Tired from the overnight passage we checked in at the police dock where two stern officers informed us that we would have to pay an importation tax on the boat. A little annoyed, and over-tired, we decided to stay at the transient dock a few days to get ourselves organized. It had been a long six month wait for my visa, and it was a good feeling to finally be here.

First thing to do was pick up Mark's truck which we had left at the US border. We jumped into an Uber Taxi and I caught a glimpse of the city on the drive out, excited that soon we would have a car to explore it in. But when we got there, Marks truck was gone...stolen! Just what we needed on our first day in the US! Now we had to deal with the police and the insurance company. Mark was immediately on his phone, but being Thanksgiving weekend, there was only an automated message, and the police station was closed!

Not a happy camper

We hired a car (the first of many we hired over those 3 months) and drove back to the boat, disappointed. We just couldn't ignore the fact that if the insurance company didn't pay out on the truck, we wouldn't have the money to go cruising. It was scary to think that we had just possibly lost $20,000- and the time it would take us to earn that again. There was nothing to do but try and stay positive and stick to our plan. Within a week we had a slip at Sun Harbor Marina, between Harbor Island and Shelter Island. It was double the price of our marina in Mexico.

Mark started working full time immediately, which was an adjustment for both him and I. Spending up to 10 hours a day away from each-other was something new. So we started living for the weekends, when we would be able to explore San Diego together. We got to spend some special time with Mark's friends, including Thanksgiving and Christmas. We enjoyed eating out. We went to a hockey game. I even got to see one of my favorite bands from Australia play.

Being nature lovers we visited the beaches and coastline. It was winter, so many days it was foggy as the marine layer clung to the bay, by noon the sun would have burned it off. Seals played around the boat and birds chirped at our masts. Most days we felt incredibly lucky.

Ocean Beach

Pacific Beach

Sunset Cliffs

Potato Chip Rock

   

La Jolla Beach

By now, the insurance company had launched an investigation into the theft, trying to come up with a reason not to honor the claim. The case was dragging on and we seemed to always be playing 'cat and mouse' with the agent. A few days before Christmas, Mark suggested we visit Las Vegas (his spontaneity is one of the things I love!). We packed and left that day, checking into one of the hotels right on the main strip. We walked around and enjoyed the Christmas decorations. It was my first time in Vegas and even though I expected to see some gambling, I still couldn't quite believe the casinos, how huge they were and how full they were all through the day and night. People gambling 24/7. And truthfully, they didn't seem to be having the greatest time. I preferred the tacky, worn out Old Vegas. The brown vinyl seats and ancient slot machines. The wedding chapels. The 'colorful' crowd.

        

Seeing as though we were so close, we decided to drive a little extra and visit the Western rim of the Grand Canyon.

We also made a day trip to Venice Beach. I loved the diverse and eclectic mix of people there. There were so many people doing different things- skateboarding, dance skating, drum circle, beach cruisers filing past, artists selling their paintings, artisans selling their craft, performers, a freak show, medical marijuana shops, live music. The boardwalk is beach, palm trees and shops... and people everywhere. Its impossible not to notice all the homeless carts and makeshift homes.

 On another occasion, my friend Rae Anne invited me to go with her to Palm Desert. It was nice to leave the coast and see the snow capped mountains.

Rae Anne- couldn't imagine a better person to introduce me to 'In and Out's' 'double double'

Beautiful Oasis- Palm Springs

Next morning we stopped in at a classic American diner for some pancakes and a shake

 We had plans to see other places whilst in the US, but with the uncertainty of the situation we didn't. After all, we were also in PREP mode to go cruising. Our hopes were set on it. The boat was basically ready. We started buying things, ordering things, parts, spares. Of course, we were also aware of the very real possibility that we would have to postpone the entire trip.  We discovered our chain plates were slightly corroded. So we took them all out and got new ones made.

Mark mounting the whisker pole

The boat gets so messy in such little time!

 One morning, as Mark was about to leave for work, we got THE call from the insurance company. The claim had been accepted! We were (once again) pinching ourselves at our good fortune. THANKYOU. More motivated than ever, we set our departure date and sailed out of San Diego two weeks later, with plans to haul out for a bottom paint in Ensenada.