tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82705815973311819112024-03-05T13:30:27.882-08:00Sailing Vessel Timoneer...Adventures of Mark & LaylaTimoneerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06443700690579807197noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8270581597331181911.post-89876758223523403502016-08-02T11:34:00.001-07:002016-08-02T11:34:28.783-07:00The Last Leg of Mexico!<div style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;">
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It's been a little while since the last Timoneer update! We are currently back on the boat in Chiapas, after having spent a few days in Guatemala followed by 3 weeks in New England, USA. It was refreshing to get off the boat again, and catch up with family and friends, but unfortunately we have returned to the boat to discover our fridge is not working! So we are stuck here waiting for parts and even considering possibly hauling out for a while as we have plans to work in France later this year. Could be a good opportunity for us to work through the 'Jobs List' that we never seem to be able to get around to when we are on the move! Remembering all the gritty details of the last month of cruising is proving difficult- here is an attempt to sum up the major events of the last leg of cruising Mexico- mostly we were trying to move as fast as possible, knowing that hurricane season was fast approaching and we were so close to the Tehuantepec!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of where the Pangas dock in Zihuantanejo</td></tr>
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In <b>Zihuantanejo</b> (a place Mark had been looking forward to because of its reference in the film 'The Shawshank Redemption'), aside from the usual tasks of provisioning...something special happened. Mark lost his i-phone, placed it down to eat an ice cream and proceeded to walk away without it. This phone is our lifeline in many ways- we use it to access the internet and do research, get weather updates, stay in contact with family and friends, so it was very problematic and upsetting for us. A few days later, we were sitting in the town square when a man approached us and explained that his son had found a phone and asked if it might be ours! He had recognized us from the photo on the screen of the phone! We couldn't thank him enough, gave him $100 and walked away completely in awe of life and its magic. Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basketball court right on the beach front</td></tr>
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Next port was <b>Acapulco</b>. As we motored into the bay I suggested that Mark might want to reel in his fishing lines. Of course, he shrugged it off (he knows best you see) and minutes later we heard the reel go off- A FISH?!! Could it be? Our first fish caught on the Timoneer!! Looking back, I saw a man dive into the water and his jet-ski come to a halt. Nope, we hadn't hooked a fish- we had hooked a jet-ski. Well done Captain- next time, listen to your woman! Luckily the man wasn't injured, just seriously pissed off! Speaking of jet-ski's we'd heard of the recent James Bond style execution on the beach of Acapulco, where the culprit had fled the scene on a jet-ski. We had also been warned that there was nothing for cruisers in Acapulco, but we needed fuel and I wanted to see it for myself. I'm always excited to drop anchor in an unusual place. In this case, we had spectacular views of the skyscrapers! Acapulco is at once a beautiful tourist mecca of luxurious hotels and also Mexico's most violent city boasting 12 murders a day. The most concerning thing for us was making trips to shore and having to leave the dingy on the beach unattended. We asked a man who was renting jet-ski's to look after it, but you just never know. Fortunately, both times we returned to find our dingy waiting for us.<br />
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One afternoon we ventured into town for some dinner and while we were eating it began to rain HEAVILY. Within 40 minutes the streets were flooded, we watched as the water rushed down the streets and out towards the ocean. We hurried back to the boat, concerned we had left some hatches open, and of course, we had. The ocean was brown with filth, all the rubbish of Acapulco was now floating around us, yuck!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hurry up Mark! The storm is coming!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local man surfing a shovel</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That's the Timoneer out there!</td></tr>
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From Acapulco we sailed to <b>Puerto Escondido</b>, hoping to catch some waves at the famous world class surf break. Again, like most other places we'd been so far, we were the only sailboat around, being so late in the season. The town is split in 2 parts- one side is the local side, where we checked in with the Port Captain and shopped for food. The other side is the tourist side, which has a laid back surfer vibe, a long street of cafe's, restaurants and surf shops adjacent to the beach break. The cool thing about surfing here is that there are breaks all along the beach, which means the surfers are very spread out. The further you walk down the beach the less crowded it becomes. We were lucky because there was some serious swell building, meaning good waves, but also this made for an uncomfortable and risky anchorage.<br />
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The waves were so good and got so big that on the fourth day I broke my board in half! It was never a longboard wave to begin with, but that's the only board I had...and it was great fun while it lasted!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the Port Captains Office</td></tr>
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We made a trip into town to buy a new board (found a cheap 7.6ft beater that should be more suitable to the waves around here), and on the way back the winds picked up suddenly. This was unexpected and lasted a few hours, reminding us again of our predicament- It was time to go! But the following day, when we attempted to check out with the Port Captain, he informed us that they had put up the RED FLAG warning and no boats were allowed to leave the port. We were stuck. Unfortunately for us, we would have been safer out at sea, where our boat can safely handle swell and wind. At anchor, we run the danger of dragging anchor and ending up on the rocks! We endured an uncomfortable wait, and at first sight of the green flag, we picked up anchor and headed straight for our next port- Huatulco- 1hr 57min by car and for us it would take about 14 hours! May as well have been walking..</div>
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In <b>Huatulco</b>, we decided to stay at the marina, in preparation for the next passage, where we would be crossing the Gulf of Tehuantepec, a reputedly dangerous section where winds funnel in from Eastern Mexico causing fierce storms and high seas. We hoped to find other sailors we could strategize with about the best weather window to make the leap. However, only 1 boat remained for the season and we were nevertheless thankful to speak with them. They even showed us around!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Santa Cruz, where the big cruise ship docks</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The organic farmers' market</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All kinds of tortillas- coconut, chocolate, sesame, cactus etc.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The day Timoneer almost adopted a puppy!</td></tr>
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There was a teachers' strike happening in the state of Oaxaca at this point, with blockades and strikes. This meant we were unable to buy diesel. Also the supermarkets weren't able to restock their fruit and vegetable supplies, the shelves were filled with old, rotting produce. We needed diesel, food and a good weather window to leave and we had none of these yet, so we decided to anchor our boat in a clean, quiet anchorage a couple of nights. This was a good opportunity to scrub the bottom and enjoy some beach time.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Empty shelves at the supermarket</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the lighthouse and the blowhole</td></tr>
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We returned to the marina with news of a favorable weather window and prepared for the Tehuantepec crossing. The strikes were still happening, but we managed to find a small local store with some produce and decided we had just enough diesel in the tank to make it, provided we had enough wind to carry us. As we sailed out towards what we hoped would be a safe and uneventful passage, Mark caught his first worthy fish! A mahi-mahi! Surely this was a good omen!<br />
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That night, as we sailed past Salina Cruz (with a full genoa and mizzen out) we hit 28-30 knots of wind. This lasted a few hours and was the worst of our T-pec crossing. Not too terrible! It was actually an enjoyable passage, with fresh fish for supper, the entertainment of dolphins and the usual pleasures of sailing along a beautiful blue ocean in total solitude (and the freedom to do so in the nude!).<br />
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<b>Chiapas</b> greeted us with huge swell, as we motored into the entrance of the port and down the channel of the estuary. The marina itself is about a half hour drive from the town center of Tapachula (not very convenient for buying groceries), but it is well priced and recommended as a very safe place to leave the boat. After some research and discussion over our plans, we decided this was a convenient place to leave the boat for the month, and make an inland trip to Guatemala (whose border is 15 minutes away from Tapachula) and then fly out from Guatemala city to Boston to spend 3 weeks visiting Mark's family and friends. From our time living in Ensenada to the past few months spent sailing down from San Diego all the way to here, we had finally arrived to the Guatemalan border! Stay tuned for the next post- Our travels in Guatemala!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the town center of Tapachula</td></tr>
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<br />Timoneerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06443700690579807197noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8270581597331181911.post-47327361253948828652016-05-25T20:28:00.001-07:002016-05-25T20:43:27.891-07:00Bahia Chamela, Tenacatita and Barra de Navidad<br />
Bahia Chamela, a humble coastal town with a few palm-thatched restaurants snuggled in the corner and four miles of nothing but sand and tiny fragile shells. Deceitfully peaceful, the afternoon thermal winds would pick up making for a very rolly anchorage. Sleeping in the V-berth meant listening to the chain cry out and contsantly worrying that our anchor had lifted and we were drifting towards the beach, a hundred meters away.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spined Venus Clams</td></tr>
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After a couple of nights, we migrated to a little island 2 miles off, the sand was whiter there and it was completely vacant. With the Stand Up Paddle board, I became its only inhabitant. A few hours of total solitude and beauty. The water was quite clear, though upon closer inspection was full of 'bioluminescent dinoflagellates', the reason for the water coming to life at night. Mark called me out from bed one night to watch as he spit and peed and fluoro circles appeared. Truly amazing!<br />
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As we sailed away from Chamela towards Tenacatita (about a half day sail), we were greeted by a pod of dolphins; Google: In places with a high abundance of food, pods can merge temporarily, forming a superpod- such groupings may exceed 1,000 dolphins! We sailed through this SUPERPOD, standing on the bow sprit, close enough to make out the scratches and spots on their sleek bodies. </div>
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In Bahia Tenacatita we anchored off 'The Aquarium', a field of brain coral, bleached but in its way no less beautiful, inhabited by puffer beach and small electric-blue fish. Low tide meant it was an obstacle course of channels and trying not to get our bellies scraped.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A hotel, damaged by weather and now vacant.</td></tr>
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We walked to the lookout and were kicked out by a guard. Then we walked along the road to the other side of the peninsula, to the other beach. Again, guards came and asked us to leave. This too, was private property! We decided it was time to get back to the boat before we got into real trouble.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HOT SAND!</td></tr>
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Around the next bay we visited the township of Manzanilla, stumbling upon a crocodile park. US$2.00 gets you a long walk along fenced, wooden bridges through a crocodile infested mangrove. Such an adrenaline rush and perhaps a miracle we came out the other end alive!<br />
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And then, imbued with partial fear we did what the locals do, taking our dhingy for a little drive down the other end of the same river, apparently croc-free. It was also a good opportunity to practice my advanced dhingy driving skills resulting in a few gnarly scratches!<br />
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Another half days sail and we arrived to Melaque. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This hotel never recovered from the cyclone that destroyed it before it was ever finished.</td></tr>
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Crossing the bay to Barra de Navidad, we decided to anchor in the lagoon for a couple of nights. The tide was coming down and we followed the channel on our chart plotter into belly-button height water and RAN AGROUND!!! After failing to drag ourselves out with the anchor, we were defeated and subjected to the humiliating taunts from the passengers on the water taxis 'Hahahaha Capitane!'- all we could do was hide or get off the boat and go for a meal; watch our boat lift out of the water and lean to one side, whilst eating delicious fried fish and cold beer waiting for the tie to rise us off.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Motoring into the lagoon, all was going well until....!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Never put too much faith in a chart!</td></tr>
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We discovered that Marina Isla Navidad has cheap slip fees off-season (less than half price) and decided to leave our boat for a month. Mark was asked to join the SuperYacht we previously worked on to cross the Atlantic. I used this time to fly home to Australia to visit my family and friends.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The yellow foam was a failed attempt of the Governments' to stop the erosion. Also a wave deflector lines the beach and breaks incoming waves (bummer for surfers!)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water taxi transports a family and some fresh produce</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SV Timoneer ready for a month alone in Barra de Navidad</td></tr>
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<br />Timoneerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06443700690579807197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8270581597331181911.post-76465423333576948592016-04-20T10:27:00.002-07:002016-04-20T10:27:17.285-07:00Banderas Bay<br />
From San Jose del Cabo we were surprised to have some light but sailable wind, we crossed the Sea of Cortez, arriving in La Cruz (part of Banderas Bay) two days later. We dropped anchor and headed to shore immediately to visit our friends on SV Mambo, who happened to be having a party that very evening. We socialized with other cruisers and expats living in the area who were happy to share their local knowledge on what to do, and where to go. The following day we ventured into town for the Sunday markets, located right on the waterfront. <br />
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It happened to be Easter around this time- Semana Santa (Saints week), and so the beaches were packed daily with Mexican families who come out in full force with 'everything but the kitchen sink', bringing chairs, tents, shade, crockpots, alcohol and music. There is always a mariachi band playing somewhere, even on the beach!</div>
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La Cruz is a very charming small town, lined with cobblestone streets and colorful flowers. Children run around everywhere, Grandmas sell their food directly from their kitchen. There is also a vibrant sailing community here, and lots of activities going on, from yoga to workshops to craft groups and swap meets. Plenty of people sail the Pacific Puddle jump from here, while others continue North or South (as we were). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaQUVMkoUeuZKuF6pW3sx6L2lm3ka7NsaP8PhFgcV8uhWYXrZLpFoZ-vqHFnGWBs5dhTnqwLVBo27OUbCDCtDXIrT2dsT2cfWKDfTkj3szSlhY9Zb_SIuFVB_MQAR-D13niIjQNsC_Bw/s1600/IMG_1450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaQUVMkoUeuZKuF6pW3sx6L2lm3ka7NsaP8PhFgcV8uhWYXrZLpFoZ-vqHFnGWBs5dhTnqwLVBo27OUbCDCtDXIrT2dsT2cfWKDfTkj3szSlhY9Zb_SIuFVB_MQAR-D13niIjQNsC_Bw/s640/IMG_1450.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This boat was anchored at La Cruz when heavy swell came in and broke their rope to chain splice and washed it up on the rocks!</td></tr>
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We stayed in Banderas Bay for 2 weeks, and dropped anchor a few different places. We spent a while in Punta de Mita which was closer to the surf breaks, and structured our days around going surfing and napping through the hottest part of the day. We bought a hammock and strung it up on the bow- a perfect place to read and nap, as the wind and motion of the boat do all the hard work.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Surf breaks- La Lancha, Playa Anclote and El Faro- all accessible by dhingy!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ceviche just never gets old..</td></tr>
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We made a day trip (hitch-hiking) to the nearby town of Sayulita, a place known for its 'hippy' vibe. We didn't bother bringing the boat, as there is no safe anchorage there and it was slightly North to where we were. The hills there boast of brightly colored mansions that seem to have been imagined first in a drug induced bout of inspiration. In town, locals (of the foreign kind) get around in golf buggies.<br />
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We also made a day trip to the Marietas Islands, a few miles off the coast, known for their caves and unique wildlife. We were told that we needed a permit to anchor there as it is a government protected area and tourist hotspot, but upon finding that this permit was only obtainable at Puerto Vallarta (a two hour bus ride) we decided to plan on a very early arrival. We set our anchor at 7.15 and headed straight for the famous 'hidden beach' which we had seen many times on posters and hoped we would get there before the crowd. We found a tiny opening (was this is???), tied off the dhingy, and proceeded to swim through the opening. There was a strong surge and it was dark halfway through. Yes, it was scary! It looked nothing like the photoshopped pictures, but it was still really cool to swim through a cave and come out the other side to a secret beach. As we swam back out, the boats and tour groups started arriving.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://toursinvallarta.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/marietas-island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://toursinvallarta.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/marietas-island.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This great picture I took from the internet, maybe if we had an underwater camera or a drone we could have got this shot?</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This picture was taken from inside the 'bowl' after swimming through the cave</td></tr>
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After, we explored the second island, managing to almost capsize our dinghy on the way in (talk about an adrenaline fuelled morning), we walked along the beach, through caves and up onto the large grassy knoll, where I almost stepped on a brown snake, which ended our trip walking through the long grasses on a bird infested island. Bird eggs + Tall grass = SNAKES right?! Back on the beach, we met another group of people, their guide politely informed us that it was a $1500 fine if caught going onto the island. Woops. We made it back to the boat and were greeted by a government patrol boat who also politely informed us that it is forbidden to anchor there without a permit. We couldn't have gotten out of there faster! It was lucky we didn't get fined, and also lucky that we got to see everything before being kicked out. I guess the proverb rings true- It's easier to ask forgiveness than to ask for permission! But really, we are terribly sorry for being such bad tourists..<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don't those caves look evil to you?</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The protected blue-footed booby</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maybe taken a minute before the snake encounter?</td></tr>
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<br />Timoneerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06443700690579807197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8270581597331181911.post-48005502012285036612016-03-26T14:38:00.001-07:002016-03-28T21:20:49.756-07:00Hauling Out and Hauling Ass to Banderas Bay<br />
From San Diego we sailed overnight to Ensenada, with an appointment to haul out for a bottom paint at 8am. Naturally we expected a delay and let out a chuckle when we saw that the malecon (boardwalk) between the dock and the boatyard was being reconstructed and repainted. Once tied to the dock, we were instructed to wait. This was my chance to get some more blessed sleep! Mark jumped off and without a moments delay I crawled into bed. Some time later the quiet must have woken me, there were no more trucks, the lack of creaking lines, water sounds, no footsteps on deck. I peeped out and saw that we were in the AIR! The boat had been hauled out with me in it.<br />
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We didn't expect to stay in the yard more than a few days (a bottom paint is a quick in and out job after all), but ended up staying a total of two weeks waiting for a new cutlass bearing and transmission shaft coupler which needed replacing. Time in the yard was certainly different to being on the water. Baja Naval is situated right behind the 3 Presidential Heads and next to the giant flag, which means it is very central and with all the local festivities, there was music every afternoon and every night, right next door. Being back in Ensenada was a great opportunity for us to visit our friends and re-visit our favourite places to eat. We also tried to do jobs that we hadn't quite got done in San Diego, but alas- it seems there is never a point when you can say 'Yes, we are absolutely, truly READY'. With the delay on our boat parts, we ordered spare parts and last minute things online and made a trip to San Diego by car to pick them up, as the Mexican postal service is slow. Mark installed the HF radio which provides long range radio communication and an AIS receiver which allows us to see other AIS vessel information, like speed, course, and closest point of approach. Without AIS we'd be squinting through binoculars and making guesses. These are completely optional but we both feel that they are indispensable and provide peace of mind and safer sailing. I decided to tackle one of two decorative teak pieces at the bow. I can't seem to nail the google search on it, so I can't tell you what it's called! But we bought a heat gun for the job. And I speak from experience when I say that stripping varnish with a heat gun (instead of sanding) feels like cutting through warm butter.</div>
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As the time for us to be put back in the water approached so did a nasty weather system of strong wind and 5m swell. Our neighbor in the yard told us he was hauling out for it...ugh maybe not the best day to be put back in the water then. We opted to stay on the hard one more day and then ride the end of that system right down the coast of Baja. We topped up the fuel tank and had a farewell beer at the marina bar before leaving Ensenada. We had sailed up Baja last June and thought we would skip the usual stops and head straight for Puerto Vallarta. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just a couple Bonita, no keepers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Every morning we found squid on deck?!</td></tr>
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We sailed mostly (using the jib and mizzen) but the wind was inconsistent and we clocked about a day and a half on the engine. After 6 nights and 5 days of variable wind conditions we needed fuel and a more recent weather forecast before heading across to the mainland (just in case). We pulled into Cabo San Lucas at the tip of Baja, dropping anchor and hurrying our way to shore only to discover that Spring Break was happening in full force. What a way to be brought back into the 'real' world. We walked down the beach, through masses of inebriated young adults, and veered into town for some groceries, and a quiet beer. We had heard the fuel docking fees in Cabo were outrageous, but thought it might just be another cruiser rumor. Sure enough, we found out they were charging $150 just to tie up at the fuel dock, not including the price of fuel. We scoffed and decided it was worth going out of our way to fuel up at San Jose del Cabo on the way out. The following day we motored down to a more secluded beach and paddled ashore with the SUP. We brought a picnic lunch, our little portable music speaker, and a big beach carpet to lay on. Within the hour we were swamped with tour boats. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freestyle cruising was their slogan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When Jet skis rule the anchorage (no one is safe!)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spring Break at Mango Deck</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our "secluded" beach</td></tr>
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It took another two days to get to La Cruz from Cabo. Total passage time of 9 days. We are now anchored just outside of La Cruz Marina, just north of Puerto Vallarta. It is a quiet little cobblestone town, lined with colorful flowers, and frequented by expats and cruisers. Big community here and lots of things going on. Tomorrow we will anchor at Playa Anclote (on Punta Mita) again, where we can dinghy out to the surf breaks morning and afternoon, and enjoy the in between time napping and reading in our newly acquired hammock strung up on the bow. What a life! Thanks for reading!<br />
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<br />Timoneerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06443700690579807197noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8270581597331181911.post-61813431725079264462016-03-07T11:45:00.002-08:002016-03-07T20:40:20.837-08:00Three months in San Diego<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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At dawn, we pulled into San Diego Bay and were greeted by a rain shower and the bobbing lights of the waterway. Tired from the overnight passage we checked in at the police dock where two stern officers informed us that we would have to pay an importation tax on the boat. A little annoyed, and over-tired, we decided to stay at the transient dock a few days to get ourselves organized. It had been a long six month wait for my visa, and it was a good feeling to finally be here.</div>
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First thing to do was pick up Mark's truck which we had left at the US border. We jumped into an Uber Taxi and I caught a glimpse of the city on the drive out, excited that soon we would have a car to explore it in. But when we got there, Marks truck was gone...stolen! Just what we needed on our first day in the US! Now we had to deal with the police and the insurance company. Mark was immediately on his phone, but being Thanksgiving weekend, there was only an automated message, and the police station was closed!</div>
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We hired a car (the first of many we hired over those 3 months) and drove back to the boat, disappointed. We just couldn't ignore the fact that if the insurance company didn't pay out on the truck, we wouldn't have the money to go cruising. It was scary to think that we had just possibly lost $20,000- and the time it would take us to earn that again. There was nothing to do but try and stay positive and stick to our plan. Within a week we had a slip at Sun Harbor Marina, between Harbor Island and Shelter Island. It was double the price of our marina in Mexico.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R0BI1Ivqx3s/VpXQqOgjArI/AAAAAAAABl8/8zBeEj8HsFw/s1600/IMG_0677.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>Mark started working full time immediately, which was an adjustment for both him and I. Spending up to 10 hours a day away from each-other was something new. So we started living for the weekends, when we would be able to explore San Diego together. We got to spend some special time with Mark's friends, including Thanksgiving and Christmas. We enjoyed eating out. We went to a hockey game. I even got to see one of my favorite bands from Australia play.<br />
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Being nature lovers we visited the beaches and coastline. It was winter, so many days it was foggy as the marine layer clung to the bay, by noon the sun would have burned it off. Seals played around the boat and birds chirped at our masts. Most days we felt incredibly lucky.<br />
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Pacific Beach</div>
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Potato Chip Rock</div>
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By now, the insurance company had launched an investigation into the theft, trying to come up with a reason not to honor the claim. The case was dragging on and we seemed to always be playing 'cat and mouse' with the agent. A few days before Christmas, Mark suggested we visit Las Vegas (his spontaneity is one of the things I love!). We packed and left that day, checking into one of the hotels right on the main strip. We walked around and enjoyed the Christmas decorations. It was my first time in Vegas and even though I expected to see some gambling, I still couldn't quite believe the casinos, how huge they were and how full they were all through the day and night. People gambling 24/7. And truthfully, they didn't seem to be having the greatest time. I preferred the tacky, worn out Old Vegas. The brown vinyl seats and ancient slot machines. The wedding chapels. The 'colorful' crowd.</div>
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Seeing as though we were so close, we decided to drive a little extra and visit the Western rim of the Grand Canyon.</div>
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We also made a day trip to Venice Beach. I loved the diverse and eclectic mix of people there. There were so many people doing different things- skateboarding, dance skating, drum circle, beach cruisers filing past, artists selling their paintings, artisans selling their craft, performers, a freak show, medical marijuana shops, live music. The boardwalk is beach, palm trees and shops... and people everywhere. Its impossible not to notice all the homeless carts and makeshift homes.</div>
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On another occasion, my friend Rae Anne invited me to go with her to Palm Desert. It was nice to leave the coast and see the snow capped mountains. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rae Anne- couldn't imagine a better person to introduce me to 'In and Out's' 'double double'</td></tr>
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Beautiful Oasis- Palm Springs</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Next morning we stopped in at a classic American diner for some pancakes and a shake</td></tr>
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We had plans to see other places whilst in the US, but with the uncertainty of the situation we didn't. After all, we were also in PREP mode to go cruising. Our hopes were set on it. The boat was basically ready. We started buying things, ordering things, parts, spares. Of course, we were also aware of the very real possibility that we would have to postpone the entire trip. We discovered our chain plates were slightly corroded. So we took them all out and got new ones made. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark mounting the whisker pole</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The boat gets so messy in such little time!</td></tr>
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One morning, as Mark was about to leave for work, we got THE call from the insurance company. The claim had been accepted! We were (once again) pinching ourselves at our good fortune. THANKYOU. More motivated than ever, we set our departure date and sailed out of San Diego two weeks later, with plans to haul out for a bottom paint in Ensenada.
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<br />Timoneerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06443700690579807197noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8270581597331181911.post-29917264450438363312016-01-03T15:32:00.000-08:002016-03-07T20:09:35.992-08:00Ensenada, settling into boat ownership<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marina Coral</td></tr>
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We began to find our rhythm in Ensenada. We knew where to find the best fish taco, we had our juice guy, and we had our boat to work on! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Best way to start the day, with a fresh juice! (and if you're feeling brave add some cactus)
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First thing to do was inventory
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDJjXLhg8-x88QkhKHgRt9GSiQ49ReHEhrjVUz_Fa_v24xnrUg5FJaTx67m7pOgl4tlO1zTIXUsHsWwCYlnV_WfSr127bq8TDhI4QdqnzFSwtgk6HyQ36-NFs4ZC7KRRlMOYjMhkFWbg/s1600/20150809_160708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where did I put that screwdriver again?</td></tr>
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Next, we needed to outfit the boat. Thankfully Ely, Jim's wife suggested we visit 'Los Globos', an area of 'segundos', second hand shops. These thrift shops are stocked with things brought from the US, donated or taken from the sidewalk. Most items are priced from a few cents to about twenty dollars. We saved a lot of money this way and it was fun finding treasures and happiness in things that were perfectly useful and functional and beautiful and that others deemed to be junk.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outfitting the galley</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark at the Segundos
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Sometimes we would get back to the boat and throw stuff out if it wasn't right "After all, it was only 30 pesos!" we would laugh all the way to the rubbish bin. Some of my great finds include a 'Le Creuset' teapot, a set of cast iron pans, a mismatched collection of finely engraved old-fashioned cutlery, tools, picture frames and three different globes.</div>
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Mark managed to reconnect with his old employer and was lucky to negotiate a part time deal. So, once a week he would drive up to San Diego for work. He would come home with trolleys full of gear for the boat, and always food- organic milk, cheese, sour dough bread, berries- all luxury foods to us since they are hard to find in Mexico.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSjF28evumLpsgv92y3efXDw1b9HbEAeU_xS6Exc3ehxO_ieiD58jrf_qkR1OdgNVsyqKpeqbtKBLYTVWIQHO1MPgdxQ8qVJzzgaYYnu7OQb_EC35evVVYXyV9PxYNAsHcr3eK4GX93g/s1600/IMG_0500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJVaEDAbEECf1_RR1Fjp5XeDrNJhiqtNWO1tdGLuNYsmZZzgkm3VXYnnVbcu6gck9ZOiJlQJ9HmYUp0sC5FBWLhMxfRrGCtLV2eHOAfKIIyz0LLh-rWRdbou5eYAwgVIiMl9EyWQPKcg/s1600/P1240270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJVaEDAbEECf1_RR1Fjp5XeDrNJhiqtNWO1tdGLuNYsmZZzgkm3VXYnnVbcu6gck9ZOiJlQJ9HmYUp0sC5FBWLhMxfRrGCtLV2eHOAfKIIyz0LLh-rWRdbou5eYAwgVIiMl9EyWQPKcg/s320/P1240270.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSjF28evumLpsgv92y3efXDw1b9HbEAeU_xS6Exc3ehxO_ieiD58jrf_qkR1OdgNVsyqKpeqbtKBLYTVWIQHO1MPgdxQ8qVJzzgaYYnu7OQb_EC35evVVYXyV9PxYNAsHcr3eK4GX93g/s1600/IMG_0500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSjF28evumLpsgv92y3efXDw1b9HbEAeU_xS6Exc3ehxO_ieiD58jrf_qkR1OdgNVsyqKpeqbtKBLYTVWIQHO1MPgdxQ8qVJzzgaYYnu7OQb_EC35evVVYXyV9PxYNAsHcr3eK4GX93g/s320/IMG_0500.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Finding a balance between 'real world' work and boat work was difficult at times, but yet amongst all the work he managed to score himself some modeling work, as the marina's poster boy!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8yUU-4ncZ_nM1Wzm-kjxQ4sIlEMz0qeEGL3K0GKH9bfY_W46mVNwqlueEatd9qb_dREjY-K5BuPnNXu9YJjxNwA7Uj4moB1nv-t-zQI55Z92ZAy0Rt2G3bx_45Lb_zj6aBNywxMr-0g/s1600/Mark+billboard.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8yUU-4ncZ_nM1Wzm-kjxQ4sIlEMz0qeEGL3K0GKH9bfY_W46mVNwqlueEatd9qb_dREjY-K5BuPnNXu9YJjxNwA7Uj4moB1nv-t-zQI55Z92ZAy0Rt2G3bx_45Lb_zj6aBNywxMr-0g/s640/Mark+billboard.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Meanwhile, I kept busy with odd jobs. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfnGFWuXmBmwuo61QsCDcDXQQmnTVRWD1byjCf-PuWT4lLD6n0OXDXYIntY1kvWuWhH_kelRfjMd98TXlh4czFG2O81uOCwxTdioqI4-P9THGkl2BjMZ25HeHsIjFcQqCsod7P2b5_LA/s1600/P1240268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>I gave the bathrooms a fresh coat of paint, built some shelves to create extra storage, and fixed and replaced the upholstery. </div>
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Painting the heads... and the drop cloth (woops!)
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiptr0dNcQzZNYX17vXzk6SZK0YAk5geZnVkLFb6tnW14CApmm9uNSCyZeWUh8r7VzFJAQiQoiMPNJRkVT-F0gNhLAO18O3pKj9OV6qChydvgeegErH7TSZ_SJlRklF1V1zA_5j6VQTOQ/s1600/IMG_0278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh42d5x7zdJeDq8ObJ-2Ooef6Qh7DZ1i8plq130MN7eCeNz_4Io6L_6Z9wDRMSdKp00eqPPWEOgLvPDkMU3CwtP61wsHeiZTTajcmWWr6w_MRAVTZI0p8lbNR_VY786I-WxC2ETWgSZXg/s1600/P1240184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWGDb31Dbi5y5B9ggez-XFQbS8UdYTMrRUE-OVXPNhW65Yq45jZUFPPm7YHitbB29CqUFNgFJUQLohOae3vPMMfwAWgvq0JL9_fp30tjPZCgmGkoE-DN2O18HtxhPJOa8HYA9EtW6wtg/s1600/IMG_0433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWGDb31Dbi5y5B9ggez-XFQbS8UdYTMrRUE-OVXPNhW65Yq45jZUFPPm7YHitbB29CqUFNgFJUQLohOae3vPMMfwAWgvq0JL9_fp30tjPZCgmGkoE-DN2O18HtxhPJOa8HYA9EtW6wtg/s320/IMG_0433.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjulzkHYjfGtdSOdX8K_tPG2aTrEme5XinRsY24CcYTeu3IUSFIIL0ns3VJZJ_mlPMixEgKWQ5EFeoqAxtGi92VXTOXSWD6cmrDE8270Ku4gyc-2dBnM4pav4Qpxd4atqVuKIOLw2_ugw/s1600/IMG_0248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjulzkHYjfGtdSOdX8K_tPG2aTrEme5XinRsY24CcYTeu3IUSFIIL0ns3VJZJ_mlPMixEgKWQ5EFeoqAxtGi92VXTOXSWD6cmrDE8270Ku4gyc-2dBnM4pav4Qpxd4atqVuKIOLw2_ugw/s320/IMG_0248.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I got this!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj38amYi9QGFNlCpSSUxFWAaOPMYuf1E-fFSahIB6lW6AxzurnpnEkG0Fme2AwkW6q6X2V402f3ywidXKtMUldJq062E-uW9q2kFu2dsYvdfjXl7X48c605mrrU2dfmwbF5xLMz5ub7jA/s1600/IMG_0248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYnekdHETiPJL1zcJwI9iVbekNcOFMWLRiU55RBXntMzFKNjfTE2llezA_ZUlQCuw-PU34h7FbeYWxa9n1luoAHn9iJRh_6dpSMc7r1FuKkPTor9fOzTQD6Hkb47Q0fh-yy-3TbSGIMQ/s1600/IMG_0500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-uVJ5NaPJ_WMOB9YtRAAXUTaJqetfgUFqN3ZzZPiimIzz9lnooTnwbPFvVmjmsWzeLF55LqPRuqqwCcF6szyUFT4ixAQOl5xFN59LjLNzl6pBfrWULFyPeUOAL58KDY64wRqVcwYUw/s1600/IMG_0541.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>But the biggest job was re-bedding the windows to fix leaks. Sanding back the wood, varnishing the frames, getting new glass cut, using silicone to re-bed the glass into the frame and then sealing it back in place. That job took a couple of months and we ended up sailing up to San Diego without our windows back in place! Bad move- YES, but we took a risk and it worked out.</div>
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I celebrated my birthday with some delicious Camaron (prawns) Rancheros for breakfast, followed by a margarita at Hussong's. Outside there happened to be a wine festival going on, so we walked around, drank some Sangria and watched the grape stomping competition.</div>
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We had some visitors too. First my parents, Florence and Alain came to help us out on our maiden voyage. It was the first time mum and I had been sailing together since I was a baby! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A two year old Layla with mumzy Florence </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alain holds onto the sissy bars</td></tr>
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Alain brought us an inflatable SUP, and gave us a few pointers. This SUP will also serve as our back-up dinghy when we are anchored but don't want to hoist the dinghy. Perfect.</div>
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Sampling foods (one of our favorite family past times) was of course what we did! After all, we are French non? So we visited the Guadeloupe Valley, wine region of Baja California, where they have some amazing restaurants. On a friend's recommendation we went to La Finca Altozano, and were not disappointed!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guadeloupe Valley, wine country</td></tr>
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We hit the fish market where we tried the classic fish taco...</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LGSBmxT-zhc/VpXEVCyxnLI/AAAAAAAABEw/ezFBK3ciiQg/s1600/IMG_0034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LGSBmxT-zhc/VpXEVCyxnLI/AAAAAAAABEw/ezFBK3ciiQg/s320/IMG_0034.JPG" width="320" /> </a></div>
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<img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RLtRCX2PI-A/VpXCOTrKC5I/AAAAAAAAA_A/4ST-gsfookE/s400/20150522_172510.jpg" width="225" /><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXRUS_eRJFD7Nan1Aw207p2JoX53UoIlq1mZDR9-09URBKqW6QbEV3DQ7BPvgxrcMH9s9nFz1tBrXeOmrWt5ohv2e-oAhACCrd6MszPydQ9bgqVxsaHgjNw4TPb96ymgQBt89fFZXbng/s1600/IMG_0049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br />
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We also had some lobster at Porto Nuevo,</div>
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but we always had to leave room for dessert with Alain around!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Churros</td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w1TbHIYHEIg/VpXDXLiCRzI/AAAAAAAABC8/kUkJ1VuMJ58/s1600/20150817_111907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LGSBmxT-zhc/VpXEVCyxnLI/AAAAAAAABEw/ezFBK3ciiQg/s1600/IMG_0034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXRUS_eRJFD7Nan1Aw207p2JoX53UoIlq1mZDR9-09URBKqW6QbEV3DQ7BPvgxrcMH9s9nFz1tBrXeOmrWt5ohv2e-oAhACCrd6MszPydQ9bgqVxsaHgjNw4TPb96ymgQBt89fFZXbng/s1600/IMG_0049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w1TbHIYHEIg/VpXDXLiCRzI/AAAAAAAABC8/kUkJ1VuMJ58/s1600/20150817_111907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>After all that food (and a little Aztec 2 Step), it was time to call it a day.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RLtRCX2PI-A/VpXCOTrKC5I/AAAAAAAAA_A/4ST-gsfookE/s1600/20150522_172510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs36gfBY0b85WA12UiE6AbKCpnYQ4DhRCijec6nkhQnentLdmb1lfoNAPHO7OnUAlQ596KswHtW5sUgFKWhpJdbPKQ9uJ7H01_h96XqgshpHFTBKcD8wsRgovH1hlccWFPC6s6URmovA/s1600/IMG_0023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFcJUsl4dQUAxQS8e2gAKB9yqAHEQByR3ATvoY7roFYt7mhPdKljr7gXnr__ljDkJjOWuHDwai1nU-RITkFioMowGT-RhfxRvNV82qJqIb0KSRuWB-ohm7eaaItUVgCwgWXQ1WLK33bQ/s1600/IMG_0008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RLtRCX2PI-A/VpXCOTrKC5I/AAAAAAAAA_A/4ST-gsfookE/s1600/20150522_172510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RLtRCX2PI-A/VpXCOTrKC5I/AAAAAAAAA_A/4ST-gsfookE/s1600/20150522_172510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RLtRCX2PI-A/VpXCOTrKC5I/AAAAAAAAA_A/4ST-gsfookE/s1600/20150522_172510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFcJUsl4dQUAxQS8e2gAKB9yqAHEQByR3ATvoY7roFYt7mhPdKljr7gXnr__ljDkJjOWuHDwai1nU-RITkFioMowGT-RhfxRvNV82qJqIb0KSRuWB-ohm7eaaItUVgCwgWXQ1WLK33bQ/s1600/IMG_0008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXRUS_eRJFD7Nan1Aw207p2JoX53UoIlq1mZDR9-09URBKqW6QbEV3DQ7BPvgxrcMH9s9nFz1tBrXeOmrWt5ohv2e-oAhACCrd6MszPydQ9bgqVxsaHgjNw4TPb96ymgQBt89fFZXbng/s1600/IMG_0049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETlYDYPAW5hBIto1Teb2Fu2ksQfaAvIXxC6TYjuq95g6O6PwXS10dSIZjUDX1K9KW-JvBpkjFs-lrClRCm1_tR48U9MpH313VfK4InYk1-PJdUVDFnSf_XAzQ0J-eTR8OvEpEsdYXaA/s1600/20150812_223816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETlYDYPAW5hBIto1Teb2Fu2ksQfaAvIXxC6TYjuq95g6O6PwXS10dSIZjUDX1K9KW-JvBpkjFs-lrClRCm1_tR48U9MpH313VfK4InYk1-PJdUVDFnSf_XAzQ0J-eTR8OvEpEsdYXaA/s400/20150812_223816.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Thanks for visiting!</div>
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Pretty soon after, Marks mum, Sandy came all the way to visit us from Boston! It was my first time meeting Marks mum, and we had a great time together. Sandy loves the water, so we spent some time at the marina Jacuzzi with a few cocktails!</div>
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We also went to Rosarito and enjoyed a day at the beach.</div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ayKdBfkccxM/VpaxHCalVHI/AAAAAAAAB2A/fGWz5K3vZa8/s1600/received_10100817375784586.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ayKdBfkccxM/VpaxHCalVHI/AAAAAAAAB2A/fGWz5K3vZa8/s1600/received_10100817375784586.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br />
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We visited the Bufadora (Blowhole), and walked through the markets there, </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lsHuMCbVYQo/VpaxI4dmEDI/AAAAAAAABvM/HA6AiUyF5Oc/s1600/received_10100817375959236.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lsHuMCbVYQo/VpaxI4dmEDI/AAAAAAAABvM/HA6AiUyF5Oc/s640/received_10100817375959236.jpeg" width="362" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GLziz_GaRO4/VpXGezbXP5I/AAAAAAAABJI/4Tes_vpsiG4/s1600/IMG_0479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>On Sandy's last day, we took SV Timoneer out for a sail. Our friend Rae-anne also hopped on at the last minute. We sailed to Isla Todos Santos and back.</div>
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Marks friend, Burkey also came for a visit. We went on a fishing trip and caught mostly little red snapper and Mark caught a decent Ling Cod, which we cooked up at home. Interestingly the flesh is blue but this colour disappeared when I turned it into a curry.</div>
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At the local market we admired the Mexican sweets and I found a Frida Khalo inspired necklace,</div>
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which then inspired me to dress up as Frida for Halloween! How lucky we were to be in Mexico for</div>
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Los Dias De Muertos (Day of the Dead). We hadn't planned our costumes, so Mark ripped up one of our boat 'rags' and went as a ghost. We hit the clubs with our friends Randy and Melinda, and admired peoples' costumes.</div>
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Randy talked me into going diving with Great White sharks. He was working on a boat and hooked me up with some work too! I was scared hopping into the cage alone and it didn't help when the dive masters poured a bucket of chum over my head!</div>
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And then suddenly BOOM! My US visa arrived. This meant we could finally cross over into the US. No more commuting for Mark! </div>
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After 5 months in Mexico, it was time to leave. The day before we set sail for San Diego, Ensenada hosted the Baja 1000. With our friends Linda and Gary, we watched from the sidelines as trucks sped past spraying us with fuel. Only in Mexico could you watch a race this closely! People were constantly running across the track and cheering each-other on as they risked their lives doing so.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">at the Baja 1000 with Linda and Gary</td></tr>
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We felt very grateful for our time in Mexico, but it was time to go. By the light of a full moon, we made our way out of the bay and headed for San Diego.</div>
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<br />Timoneerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06443700690579807197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8270581597331181911.post-86413398953448960132016-01-02T14:27:00.000-08:002016-03-07T20:46:09.474-08:00Mexico and our decision to buy a boat!<div style="text-align: center;">
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After leaving our jobs on the <a href="http://timoneer45.blogspot.com/2016/01/superyacht.html">Superyacht</a>, Mark returned to the US and I went home to Australia to organize my US visa. We decided to meet up again in Mexico, on the southern tip of Baja California. We celebrated with a bottle of Veuve Cliquot that Mark been saving in his storage unit for 2 years while he was sailing..</div>
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We quickly made our way to La Paz, where we were going to be helping a friend, Jim with his boat SV Timoneer. Together we would take the boat back to Ensenada, but first we had a few weeks to enjoy La Paz. </div>
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I discovered the Paleta, Mexico's version of the ice cream on a stick. What makes this frozen treat so special (at least at this particular vendor) is that the chunks of chocolate/ cookie/ fruit are ridiculously chunky. </div>
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Then there was the Clamato, a meal-in-a-drink, which we tried only once. It consists of octopus, fish, shrimp and calamari cured in lime juice in a tomato, clam juice and optionally beer concoction topped with cucumbers, celery, chilli, salty plum and various other tamarind chewies. Despite what you might think, it was pretty damn good.</div>
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With Jim and Ely on SV Timoneer, we sailed over to Isla Espiritu Santo, where we anchored a few days with friends and fellow ketch rig sailors, Mambo and Pioneiro. The water was crystal clear, and it was a wild place. Quiet. Walking along the rocks we found dried up sea creatures- turtles, fish and baby seals.</div>
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Returning back to La Paz after a few days in Paradise, we started thinking about THE FUTURE. We had our feelers out for any job opportunities. We talked to people, we put up flyers. We didn't really know what to do once we got to La Paz. Should we keep traveling in Mexico? I couldn't exactly cross over into the US just yet because my visa hadn't arrived. Maybe we could get another crewing or superyacht job? All we could do was enjoy our time in La Paz and hope that by the time we got to Ensenada with SV Timoneer, we would have it all figured out.</div>
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One afternoon, Mark and I were having a sundowner at Tecolote beach, talking adventure and boats. We were reminiscing on the good times we'd shared on <a href="http://timoneer45.blogspot.com/2016/01/compass-rosey.html">SV Compass Rosey</a>, a boat we had sailed together from Tonga to Australia- that is how we first met. And we decided, watching that sun set, that we should definitely do it...we should buy a boat of our own. It just made sense for us. We could continue our sailing adventure on a boat, getting to travel the world, in our home.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTnxpnIDaRHee3oWV1YaeosyxEw7PzFrw819fEkGZxqCJE_ng9x8AkvL20Mq0apGrqHc2Ml-OSat7lVLzFtJKfD-nV7GAMnDZ_OIlBoJa274EaEIbP25QId_Yr5-mceh0tjEITgCTz-g/s1600/P1000484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6p2F0Nxp_u6Jvz25qkwgMXD5x64dYWAe5X9GXNjz-zTBFT0P5mIG2MmiWtFNskXianVENmW5_gTJINngnq0Gs2JIIKxFaiiCQYkJrI9fEBVWSGXzM3jI2HY27DjyS90BFgPWt-qhq6w/s1600/P1100076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>Mark wrote about his sailing adventures from Mexico to Australia, and his experience hopping boats and working along the way: <a href="http://sail7seas.tumblr.com/">click here to see Marks blog</a><br />
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Little did we know, but we would end up buying our very own boat about a month later. Turns out we ended up buying the boat we were crewing on at the time, SV Timoneer! Talk about a good test run..</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pancha, Jim's watch dog, watches Mark as he watches the horizon
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Searching for potential boats to buy we visited yards that were jam packed, leaning on each other, abandoned by their owners and minded by the yards. We talked our way onto boats and walked the docks in the dry heat discussing different designs, and our preferences. We knew exactly what we wanted and yet were prepared to compromise on just about anything. To every opinion we listened diligently. We heard the same story again and again- people buy boats, put more money into them than they would have liked (because boats are expensive, and require lots of regular maintenance) and when comes time to sell- struggle to get their money back. BOATS ARE BAD INVESTMENTS. We heard it over and over.</div>
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Finally, it was time to set sail with Jim on SV Timoneer to Ensenada. It was going to be a bumpy trip, motoring into the wind most of the way.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Captain Jim
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A stubborn booby provided some entertainment along the way. Many lemons were lost, no booby was injured, promise. </div>
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The boat handled it beautifully, but we were relieved to turn off the engine in Magdalena Bay. We went for a long walk on the beach and discovered a plague of red crustaceans, dying on the shore.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQjFKTcPkaAKTqf4mPi8hmi5ynuP0Et_jD3qRKrvoAhGEVCgzv6yJQQjT_unmGv4RADE48-2ZztHnV9LmwYtJUdSCscRhkWK0J76bPC9FezQu-dful3-wbueeVXj4kBJkKarbOT-VRCA/s1600/P1230790.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQjFKTcPkaAKTqf4mPi8hmi5ynuP0Et_jD3qRKrvoAhGEVCgzv6yJQQjT_unmGv4RADE48-2ZztHnV9LmwYtJUdSCscRhkWK0J76bPC9FezQu-dful3-wbueeVXj4kBJkKarbOT-VRCA/s400/P1230790.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">literally a truckload of puffer fish</td></tr>
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After a 10 day passaged we arrived in Ensenada and pulled into a slip at Marina coral. Jim said we could stay on the boat while we got our plan together.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our marina</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark and Layla celebrate by enjoying a margarita at Hussong's</td></tr>
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We continued to search for a boat in Ensenada. We put in an offer, but it wasn't met by the owner. One afternoon we were sitting in the cockpit of SV Timoneer, talking to Jim about our boat searching efforts. We had no concrete plan and were realizing that patience would be our greatest ally in buying 'the right boat at the right price'. It was then that Jim suggested we buy SV Timoneer. And that's what we did!</div>
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Timoneerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06443700690579807197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8270581597331181911.post-62117515560527750672016-01-01T21:49:00.000-08:002016-03-07T20:52:45.025-08:00Living and working on a luxury yacht<div style="text-align: center;">
Mark and I had kept in touch after our travels together on SV Compass Rosey. About a year later, I was teaching again, back in my hometown, and dreaming of sailing again. I contacted Mark, who had scored himself an engineering job on a beautiful 105' schooner. He told me they had just passed Cairns and were on their way to Indonesia. It felt weird knowing he had just passed by me without seeing him! I asked him to put in a good word for me if any positions opened up. The following week, Mark told me the chef was leaving, and I immediately applied for the position. Two weeks later, and I was sailing again, with Mark, in Raja Ampat, a pristine archipelago in West Papua.</div>
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The job was certainly challenging as I am no chef. But I love to cook and I do it well, so I survived. As the chef I had to prepare 3 meals a day for a total of 7 people, taking into consideration their dietary preferences or allergies. I provisioned when and where I could, which at times could only be done at the local village market, where the selection was very limited.</div>
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It was nothing like cruising. We worked hard and long hours and were lucky to have time off. It was heart wrenching sometimes to not have the time to get out of the galley and explore the beautiful places we had sailed to. So when we did have time off, we took the opportunity to jump into the water or take a walk on land.<br />
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We visited the Banda islands, home of the nutmeg spice and the nutmeg wars and took a hike up the volcano.</div>
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We also visited the Komodo islands and got pretty close to the Komodo dragons!</div>
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In Bali, we made a two day stop in preparation for the passage to Singapore. We were expecting some bad weather and were told it would be a two week trip motoring into the wind. We would be passing through the Strait of Malacca, an area that was renowned for piracy and the unpredictability of small fishing boats. It is also one of the most important shipping lanes in the world, which means it is extremely busy. Also small fishing boats passed in front of us dangerously. We had to be extremely vigilant on watch. <br />
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One day we passed by a group of search and rescue boats. They were looking for the remains of the Malaysian Airlines plane (MH 370) that had disappeared. This event was all over the news and it was an eerie feeling to be passing so close to the site.<br />
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As we arrived closer to Singapore, we scanned the horizon and counted more ships than we had fingers. Despite being on a 105' vessel, we were dwarfed by these ships. There were so many vessels transmitting their position reports on AIS, it kept crashing our computer system.<br />
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We were anchored in Singapore for less than 24 hours. Before we had a chance to see anything more than ships and fog and the outline of a bustling city, we pulled up anchor and headed for Langkawi. Back to the rough seas and the constant slamming motion of the hull on the water. The boat was hauled out in Langkawi for maintenance, and the owners left for 6 weeks.</div>
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It was a nice change from the routine of being onboard. Mark and I got an apartment to ourselves with gym and pool facilities. We would drive to the yard and work roughly 8 hour days. We had afternoons and weekends off and it was fantastic to have time to explore the island and have some privacy for ourselves. We indulged in restaurants. This close to the Thai border the food was heavily influenced by Thailand and also Malaysian. We hired motorbikes and circled the island, finding our favourite secluded beach spots. Langkawi is a duty free island, so tourists flock there to shop. We took advantage of the super cheap alcohol and imported chocolate. </div>
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After 7 weeks hauled out, we put the boat back in the water and sailed to Phuket. We got the boat ready for the next charter and even got to squeeze in some dinners out and some diving in Koh Phi Phi!<br />
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When the owners arrived we left the dock looking forward to a month of island hopping.<br />
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One anchorage we stayed at, we couldn't help but notice the islands around us looked ahem...very phallic. A trip to shore by kayak and we discovered a shrine in a cave filled with wooden penises. Turns out we were in Phra Nang cave, Krabi.<br />
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By the end of the charter, Mark and I had decided we would leave the boat together. We had itchy feet and were ready to move onto the next thing, though we didn't know exactly what that would be. We thought it might be fun to visit the US, maybe do a cross country trip in Marks truck. So I flew home to Australia to sort out my US visa and we agreed to meet up in San Diego when I got the stamp. Well that process took 6 months, so we ended up in Mexico instead, waiting for the stamp. That was a fateful mishap because we ended up buying SV Timoneer in Mexico!<br />
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Timoneerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06443700690579807197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8270581597331181911.post-55252941054408952932016-01-01T14:48:00.000-08:002016-03-07T21:01:51.497-08:00Compass Rosey, the boat we sailed through the South Pacific<div align="center">
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To explain the story of how Mark and I met, and how we came to sail the South Pacific on SV Compass Rosey, I have to go back a little. I was a sail baby for 2 years, age 1 and 2. My parents split shortly after but I treasured these photos of my parents adventures on their boat. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yep that's me!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mum and I somewhere in the Pacific. And posing on the boom</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> My Dad</td></tr>
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I wanted to experience that again, and this time remember it. I felt a strong connection to the ocean and it was on my bucket list to go sailing again. Through a crewing website, I found a position on a small sailboat, I was to be the third crew member and help out with watches and cooking. I had no experience, really, but it didn't matter. I flew into Nuie, an 'island country' I had never heard of before with the intention of sailing back to Australia with the boat. Nuie is named the rock of Polysnesia, and this made sense once I started exploring the craggy limestone coastline, full of caves and rock pools. Otherwise it is a sleepy little place, hardly any cars on the single road that circles the island.<br />
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<b>NUIE</b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The main road, central area</td></tr>
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After 3 days at anchor, and a growing sense that this may not be the most suitable boat for me, I started wondering whether I should jump off before the engine was fixed. <br />
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Fatefully I met John and Sue at the cruisers lounge in Alofi. A couple from Sonoma County, California, they had sailed their boat SV Wizard from Mexico to Nuie and had the intention of continuing onto Australia or New Zealand. They called this sail, the 'coconut milk run'. They suggested I join them and I gratefully accepted the offer. I moved onto SV Wizard that very day. With John and Sue, we hired a car and circled the island in a few hours, visiting the sites. </div>
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They also introduced me to Mark, explaining that Mark had crewed for them. Mark was now delivering a boat, SV Compass Rosey to Australia. He was losing his crew in Tonga and he suggested I could join him too. We spent the next day riding a motorbike around, walking through the rainforest and exploring the hidden caves and coastline. </div>
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With a suitable weather window, Captain John made the call to sail to Tonga. Mark and I agreed we would try and catch up again in Fiji.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John teaching me how to tie a bowline</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dolphins escorting us on our way out of Nuie</td></tr>
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<b>TONGA</b></div>
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After a 5 day passage we arrived in Tonga. It wasn't long before Mark sailed in too, and his crew left the boat as planned. Mark convinced me to sail with him on SV Compass Rosey. It was a hard decision to make, leaving John and Sue, who had saved me from disaster and been so kind to me. But I just couldn't resist the idea of sailing with Mark, a young traveler that had left the nest and taken a giant leap. I was grateful to have met Mark and felt like things were falling into place for me. Marks cousin, Jamie was flying in from Colorado to visit. Suddenly Mark had another 2 crew!</div>
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Jamey sailed with us for 2 weeks before returning home. After that Mark and I continued sailing SV Compass Rosey, just the two of us, from Tonga to Fiji to New Caledonia to Australia. The trip took 3 months. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cC18tNNL0IM/VpW6E5HmRTI/AAAAAAAAAqs/-Ftmf-vVp1s/s1600/P1090498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>Mark wrote all about it on his blog: <a href="http://sail7seas.tumblr.com/">http://sail7seas.tumblr.com/</a> if you are interested in reading about our sail through the South Pacific.</div>
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Below are some of my favorite photos from the trip:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J6pZqVqVWrI/VpW2FIng4wI/AAAAAAAAAfM/Jp3d4Iqgy6g/s1600/20131105_152136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J6pZqVqVWrI/VpW2FIng4wI/AAAAAAAAAfM/Jp3d4Iqgy6g/s400/20131105_152136.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailing into Brisbane City, Australia (final destination)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Timoneerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06443700690579807197noreply@blogger.com0